Kpalimé is the hiking area par excellence in Togo. Located right next to the Ghanaian border, it is an area full of rural villages between mountains, waterfalls, rivers and a green landscape that forms one of the most visited places in the country by nature lovers.

The city of Kpalimé is located in the Plateaux region of Togo. This region, also known as Terre de Barre, is known for its red and orange soil where the country’s main fruits are grown. In fact, most of Togo’s coffee and cocoa production comes from this region and around Kpalimé it is very common to find many people who are dedicated to agriculture and the cultivation of these foods.

Kpalimé is a quiet town, surrounded by coffee and cocoa plantations and framed by the Atakora Mountains bordering Ghana. A few kilometers from the city we find Mount Agou, the highest mountain in the country. In Kpalimé we will also find remains of German colonization, such as its white and red cathedral that bears witness to the Germanic influence that existed in this area, just before it was occupied by the French.

Today, this mainly agricultural region receives more and more visitors for its scenic appeal. Many people go hiking to see different waterfalls, such as Womé or Yikpa, also known as Wli, which are the highest waterfalls in West Africa. In addition, there are other very interesting routes such as Mount Kloto or the village of Kebo Dzigbe, located right on the slope of Mount Agou, where you will walk between small villages of mud brick houses that are scattered on the slopes of the mountain, and which offer excellent panoramic views of all its surroundings and the entire plain.

The area of Kpalimé stands out for being an area with very dense forests and where we can find a lot of fauna and flora, such as a large number of butterflies. If you visit this area, you will be able to disconnect from nature and experience for a few days the local country life of one of the most tropical regions of the country. 

How to get there?

Kpalimé is located in western Togo, very close to the border with Ghana. It is one of the main tourist destinations in the country, so we find many connections to get there from Lomé, the capital of the country.

The easiest is through a shared taxi that you can take to the west of the capital and, in about two hours, they can take you to Kpalimé for a price of around 2,500 CFA per person. You can also get there by private car along the road that goes from Atakpamé, in the center of the country, to Lomé through the Ghanaian border area. From Lomé to Atakpamé there is a distance of 220 km that you can do in about 4 hours, the intermediate point being the city of Kpalimé.

To get around the Kpalimé area, due to the terrain of the area, the easiest way is to take motorcycle taxis. With them, you can access by dirt roads to the start of many hiking trails or go up to visit different villages such as Kouma Kounda or Kebo Dzigbe. The prices of the motorcycles are negotiable and can range from 200 CFA to 2,000 CFA depending on the destination and the starting point of the route. Traveling with these motorcycles through this agricultural region is one of the most interesting experiences you can have in terms of mobility.

Finally, it should be noted that from Kpalimé you can cross into Ghana through the Wli border (by public transport you will first have to go to the town of Danyi N’Digbe and from there take a motorbike to the Wli border) or through the nearest border (Klomayondi) that will take you to the Lake Volta region in Ghana. In such cases, it is imperative that you already have the Ghana visa issued in your passport. 

What to do in Kpalimé?

The main activities we recommend doing in Kpalimé are:

– Visit Yikpa Falls, also known as Wli Falls, which are the highest in West Africa

About 50 kilometers north of Kpalimé, we find the highest waterfalls in West Africa. These waterfalls are located right on the border between Togo and Ghana. They are spectacular waterfalls that you cannot miss if you are in this region.

The most accessible entrance is from the town of Wli, in Ghana, from where you can pick up a guide and tour the different waterfalls on a spectacular excursion through the mountains of this area. In any case, from Togo you can also access it, although it is more remote and we were told that the path was more complicated. In Togo, these waterfalls are known as Yikpa Falls since the access to reach one of the falls (the upper one) is from a village located just next to the border called Yikpa. We recommend asking the locals and taking a guide to access them so you don’t miss anything during the tour of the waterfalls.

We visited these falls from Ghana and it really was one of the best activities we did in West Africa. In this link, you can see more information about the route we did, the time it took us and how we enjoyed it.

– See some of the most important waterfalls in the Kpalimé area

In this mountainous region of Togo you can also discover different waterfalls that, not being as spectacular as those of Yikpa, are located in a very beautiful green and rural environment.

Some of these waterfalls are those of Womé, located 12 kilometers from Kpalimé. You have to pay an entrance fee of 2,500 CFA at the building of the Akatamanso Association at the entrance to the village of Womé and then it is about 4 km of route until you reach a picnic area from where you take a short but steep descent until you reach the waterfall, where you can dive in.

Another of the most important waterfalls is the Tomegbé Falls, located about 15 kilometers west of Kpalimé. To get there you will have to go to the Kouma Konda weather station, and from there walk about 30 minutes between plantations of bananas, coffee, cocoa and even ananas until you reach the waterfall itself, which is about 30 meters high during the rainy season. The entrance fee is 1,000 CFA per person and also an amount to be agreed to pay a guide to accompany you to find access to the waterfalls, where you can swim and relax in a totally tropical environment.

– Visit Kebo Dzigbe, one of the magical villages located on Mount Agou

Mount Agou is the highest mountain in Togo, located at 986 meters above sea level. Located about 20 kilometers southeast of Kpalimé, to get there you will have to go to the village of Agou located on the main road between Lomé and Kpalimé; and from there take a small curvy and paved road (with a few holes) to ascend this beautiful mountain of the country.

The road passes through small villages, forests, banana and coffee plantations, and reaches the village of Kebo Dzigbe, one of the most special villages in this region built on the mountain with orange clay houses located between coffee, avocado, banana and cocoa plantations.

The Ewe people are the majority tribal group in these lands as they took refuge there during the expansion of the kingdom of Dahomey. Currently, most people work in agriculture. When you arrive in Kebo Dzigbe you will surely be surprised by its orography, but you will also be surprised by the friendliness of its people and the dirt roads that pass by the sides of the houses until you reach the primary school from where you can enjoy an exceptional view.

If you want to reach the highest point of Mount Agou, controlled by military zone, you will have to pay an entrance fee. There, you will be able to see the entire view of the plain of this region and also two monoliths: the one first established by the Germans; and years later, the French when they had these lands. As they told us that it was not worth it, we ruled out going there and enjoying this special town that was Kebo Dzigbe.

To get to this town, you have two options: access it with a motorcycle that takes you along the paved road or, if you like adventure and hiking, travel the little more than 10 kilometers that separate Agou from this town with a difference in altitude of about 600 meters that you will do in about 3 hours of ascent. Think about bringing water and food as you will pass through very rural villages where you will not find restaurants or supermarkets.

Finally, this area of Mount Agou stands out for being a privileged area in terms of the fauna and flora characteristic of the region. For this reason, we recommend that when you visit Mount Agou you do so with a guide. We recommend Gabriel, an expert guide in botany who will be able to tell you all the curiosities of the plants and the landscape of Mount Agou. You can contact him at the telephone number, which is +22891427380.

– Reach the top of Mount Kloto via dirt roads and rural areas

Mount Kloto (675 meters above sea level) is a beautiful little mountain located near the town of Kpalimé. In a privileged environment of forest paths, botanical forests, waterfalls and rural life, this is one of the main activities you can do if you are in Kpalimé, as it is located only 13 kilometers from the city.

To get there, the most common way is to get to the Chez Paul Bar where you can enjoy a good meal and a good host, and from there start walking to reach Mount Kloto. You’ll be able to get there via a track or road, but the hike isn’t difficult and is suitable for just about everyone. If you go along the track, count on the fact that it will take you approximately an hour and a half to reach the top in a journey of about 2.5 kilometers one way. By road, the path is shorter and you can reach the top in about 30 minutes and a journey of just under a kilometer.

We took a motorcycle that took us to the top and in this way we could combine this activity with other routes during the same day. In fact, we went with a motorcyclist who also guided us through the Kpalimé area, so you can negotiate with different people in order to discover this rural environment in this way. We went with Jacques, a Rastafarian boy from Kpalimé, who took us with his motorcycle to different places in the area and accompanied us to several waterfalls and rural villages for a price of about 10,000-15,000 CFA for the whole day. You can contact him by Whatsapp at the following phone: +22891797237.

– Discover some of the artisans who live in Kpalimé

Although Kpalimé stands out for being an agricultural region, there we can also find different craft centers such as wood, paints, weaving or ceramics. In addition, in the city we find a church of Germanic influence that is very interesting to see.

There are different art studios, some of which are run by Rastafarians who are dedicated to the natural painting they make through elements of the clay earth itself. You can visit the craft center or a shop such as, for example, the painting shop of the local artist Anani.

Where to sleep in Kpalimé?

In Kpalimé, we slept through Couchsurfing, but below we highlight some of the accommodations we saw around the city. These are:

– Geyser Hotel: Accommodation in Kpalimé that stands out for having air-conditioned rooms and also a swimming pool to cool off during the hottest days. Double rooms cost approximately 15,000 CFA. For more information, you can click here.

– Auberge Alexis: This accommodation is simpler than the previous one. Jean Paul is its manager and the hostel offers double rooms with fans for a price ranging from 4,000 to 6,000 CFA. It has parking inside and is a very good budget option during your days in Kpalimé. For more information, you can contact Jean Paul at +228 91 83 23 04.

Our route

DAY 1: After getting up for the last time at Louis and Martine’s house and having a quiet breakfast, we said goodbye to our hosts in the Togolese capital and took a shared taxi that took us to Kpalimé: our last destination in Togo.

In a journey of approximately 90 minutes, we entered the plateau of the country and arrived in the area of Kpalimé, the last city before crossing to Ghana. In this mountainous area where we could see the highest mountain in the country, Mount Agou, we would spend a couple of days with another Couchsurfing host: Thomas, a German guy who worked for an NGO and who offered a room in his house to receive travelers.

The taxi dropped us off at the closest point to Thomas’ home, just a few kilometers before Kpalimé. We went down loaded with backpacks and walked until we met one of the guards in the area who told us where exactly his house was, and we were able to enter through his garden. The garden was a very beautiful space of trees and tropical plants and at the back there was a small house from which Thomas came out, who was waiting for us with a smile and open arms. Since before the pandemic I hadn’t received any guests and was happy to have two new guests in her home…

We unloaded our luggage and settled in Thomas’ house. He had a job in the afternoon so we agreed that in the evening we would all have dinner together at home with a friend of his who was a percussionist. Thomas worked in the world of cooperation but had been an assistant chef in a Spanish tapas restaurant in Germany, so he really wanted to cook us a good potato omelette. We agreed that we would be in charge of buying the ingredients and that the next day he would cook an omelette for us… what a good welcome Thomas gave us!

We took advantage of the afternoon to take two motorbikes and go to the center of Kpalimé, a city scattered in different areas and that had nothing special. There, we bought eggs and potatoes and met Jacques, who would be our guide during the next day where we would go to discover the different places of this region known for its nature, its waterfalls and its mountains.

We went back to Thomas’ house and when he arrived we started to prepare dinner with his percussionist friend with whom we were talking about Togo, about the world of cooperation, about music and about life in general. A good evening to end our first day in Kpalimé.

DAY 2: At the morning, we met in Kpalimé with Jacques and his motorbike, and we both climbed up to Agou, and from there we advanced along a winding road that ascended to Mount Agou. We wouldn’t get to the top because it’s a military zone and we had to pay a price that Jacques didn’t recommend, but we would stop at Kebo Dzigbe, one of the most beautiful villages in the area.

The motorcycle ride was spectacular. A small asphalt road crossed dense forests of banana and coffee plantations, while on the shoulder we overtook people who carried logs loaded on their heads, or who carried sacks up and down and entered through small paths hidden between trees on the side of the road. We had a feeling of freedom that was quite indescribable in a very beautiful rural environment in this area of Togo.

After a few minutes on the uphill motorcycle that became very short, we parked on the side of the road and went down a small path of clay earth to approach a small village that was located on the side of the mountain and that stood out for its clay-colored mud houses and uralite roofs.

During the journey, Jacques explained to us the characteristics of the flora of this region, which stands out for being very abundant and very useful for all the local people. For example, she showed us a plant that they used to get natural paint and be able to work in the world of crafts, and she showed us by making a small drawing on Laia’s arm with the stem of the plant.

We reached the village, where the local people greeted us happily and we continued walking to the primary school, from where we obtained privileged views of the entire plain. During that day in June, there was no school because the children were already on vacation so we were able to sit in the playground and chat quietly with Jacques who told us different curiosities of the place and also all the activities that he could do as a guide to see if we could take any other activity. But, for the moment, it didn’t convince us…

We went back to the motorbike. This time, uphill, following the small path that passed right next to the houses from where we could see how some women were making fires to cook, some children were playing with each other or some men were working cultivating a vegetable garden. It was a totally tropical area and in an environment, that of Mount Agou, spectacular. We bought some bananas right on the road and went down again until we reached Kpalimé.

Then, Jacques took us to Kouma Kounda in order to walk to Mount Kloto. He had seen us as hikers and also wanted to show us this small mountain surrounded by very interesting flora and fauna such as butterflies or medicinal plants. Anyway, we walked little because a good part of the journey was done by motorcycle driving on dirt roads where only one person could pass in single file… But Jacques wanted to show his skills as a biker and went everywhere with the motorcycle while we held on tightly to any support point we could find so that the three of us did not fall off the bike.

Before reaching the top of Mount Kloto, Jacques took us to a small square to meet a Spanish man who had been living in this remote part of the country for many years. So we went to a bar where we met a somewhat introverted man with whom we were able to chat and talk about our trip. He was very happy there, he went unnoticed and when he wanted he crossed to Ghana on the secondary roads of the Kpalimé area.

After enjoying the views (well, it wasn’t a very sunny day either so we enjoyed the journey and the landscape perhaps more than the views in general), we got back on the bike and went down to see the Tomegbé waterfalls, one of the many waterfalls in the region and which was Jacques’ favorite.

This time, we couldn’t get to the foot of the waterfall by motorbike, so we walked for a while among plants and very tropical vegetation until we reached the waterfall, from where we took some photos with Jacques. We didn’t swim because the day was not good, so when we saw that quite black clouds were approaching and threatening a storm, we decided to go back quickly to Kpalimé.

As soon as we arrived at the market, a good intense downpour began to fall that forced us to take refuge under one of the stalls while the vendors quickly covered all the products in plastic so that they did not get wet. They knew that this downpour would last only a few minutes and that after that they could continue selling in the market. The rains in Africa are often like this: an intense downpour falls that cools the whole atmosphere, and then the sun rises again until threatening clouds reappear again and another downpour falls… The month of June began the rainy season in Togo and we were experiencing it live.

After the downpour passed, we took a walk through the market and went to the cathedral of Kpalimé, a cathedral with Germanic influence that was very beautiful. We went inside while Jacques waited for us outside, and then he took us back to our lodgings.

Before that, however, we would go for a few beers with Jacques who kept telling us about things and projects he had in mind. He even showed us his magic skills by putting two beers vertically glued by the part of the cork with a banknote in the middle, and only with his hand he managed to remove the banknote without the glass bottles of the beer falling to the ground.

It was hard for us to say goodbye to Jacques because he wanted to spend more time with us, but we had enough after all day with him so we told him to leave us on the road and that we would manage to get to Thomas’ house. A Spanish dinner cooked by a German was waiting for us, so we wanted to take the opportunity to take a good shower and play a good role as guests.

Thomas came home from work and immediately started cooking the potato omelette. He boiled the potatoes and prepared the omelette in a very different way from what we were used to. Instead of half an hour, it took almost more than an hour to get that omelette that we were all waiting for deliriously. Finally, we tested the result and we were able to confirm that the omelette was good but, honestly, the ones Laia makes are unbeatable…

After getting to know this area of Kpalimé, it was time to pack my backpack again in order to say goodbye to Togo and cross into Ghana the next day. We would go to the border point of Wli, where the highest waterfalls in West Africa are located, and which borders Togo. In fact, in Togo these waterfalls are known as Yikpa, but we would access them from Ghana since it seemed easier to get there. Tomorrow we would have to link different means of transport in order to reach a remote border and continue our adventure visiting a new country in Africa.

DAY 3: We got up early as we didn’t know how long the journey would take or how we would do it and we said goodbye to Thomas before taking some motorbikes that took us to Kpalimé. There, we had to ask for taxis heading north, as we had to get to a village from where we hoped to find a motorcycle that would take us closer to the border. Finally, after a long time, we were in a van heading to Danyi N’Digbe.

The journey took about two hours, as we were stopping unloading passengers and loading new ones. We went along the main road that went to Atakpamé until we reached Adéta, where we turned off onto a very beautiful road that went up to the top of the mountains. Obviously, you can imagine how fast a van loaded with passengers and luggage and constantly climbing on dirt roads was going… But, for us, it was better this way because we could continue to enjoy that green and tropical landscape that we had seen the last few days in Kpalimé.

Once we arrived at Danyi N’Digbe, we got out of the van and found ourselves alone in a detour. It was hot and there were few people outside on the street. In the background, we saw some motorcycles and approached them. We negotiated with a boy who would take us to the border with Ghana. It seemed to be reliable but just when we were already on the motorcycle with all the luggage and we had already started the first meters, we understood that the boy was complaining that it was too far away and told us that he had to charge us more… We tried to talk to him and told him that we were not willing to pay more, and as he didn’t pay much attention we decided to put our feet on the ground and stop on a straight line where there was nothing but trees and plants. We got angry with him, we pretended to be stubborn and let him leave without paying anything and waiting for someone to pass by that road that could take us to the border. Fortunately, we were already heading to Ghana so we had to wait to see if we could find someone to take us there for an acceptable price.

After a while waiting on the road, we found a motorcycle coming from the other side to which we signaled and stopped. When we told him that we were going to Ghana, he told us that he found it very difficult to take the two of us on a motorcycle since we were very loaded. You have to think that apart from the two of us, we carried two large backpacks on our backs and two small backpacks that we tried to put on top of each other as best we could without anything falling or falling ourselves.

In the end, we convinced him, got on the motorcycle and made the final journey to the border in Togo crossing the mountains. It was a very beautiful journey on a spectacular road. Maybe we would have enjoyed it more if we hadn’t been so loaded, but it was a good farewell to Togo, a country from which we did not expect much and that surprised us positively for its people and also for its diverse landscapes such as the sea, the Nok caves, the tropical part of Kpalimé or the historical part of the Pays Tamberma.

At the end of a curve, we saw a straight line where there was a house and a barrier. We were already at the border with Ghana. We paid the boy and entered the immigration booth where three policemen were wandering lying on the ground and sitting in a chair. We were the first to cross that remote and quiet border and, just after putting on the seal, we crossed the barrier and walked to the next point where you could see a much more modern house and the dirt road turned into a paved road: we were already in Ghana, a country with Anglo-Saxon influence where we would stay for three weeks. Thank you Togo. Au bientôt!